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DONGYIN/NANGAN, Taiwan: Lin Jih-shou was brewing tea final month in his widespread breakfast joint when he heard the thrill of a airplane – a uncommon sound on the distant Taiwanese-held island of Dongyin close to China’s coast, which doesn’t have an airport.
Lin, 64, rushed exterior, however solely noticed the shadow of what the federal government later described as a small, propeller-driven Chinese language plane that most definitely was testing Taiwan’s army response.
It was a stark reminder to residents of Dongyin and Taiwan’s different islands off China’s coast of the risk from their large neighbor, which considers Taipei’s democratically elected authorities illegitimate and Taiwan a rogue province to be taken by power if wanted.
The Matsu islands had been often bombarded by China on the top of the Chilly Battle, and the historical past of battle has centered minds on Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and whether or not the identical destiny could befall them.
“Once we watch Russia and Ukraine combating, our hearts harm,” Lin instructed Reuters. “Battle is simply too scary. There’s no want.”
Taiwan has raised its alert degree because the invasion, however has not reported any indicators of imminent assault.
Held by Taiwan because the defeated Republic of China authorities fled to Taipei in 1949 after dropping the Chinese language civil warfare, Matsu would most likely be an instantaneous goal for Beijing in a battle, particularly Dongyin’s missile base.
But even with China’s elevated army stress lately, the archipelago has seen stylish companies and a nascent artwork scene spring up.
On the primary island of Nangan, former army brothels and underground bunkers home reveals that opened final month as a part of the inaugural Matsu Biennial artwork pageant.
“It’s a strategy to rebrand and retell the tales of Matsu,” stated Lii Wen, who established the native department of the ruling Democratic Progressive Get together in 2020.
Taiwan’s outlying islands, lengthy generally known as army strongholds, could be reframed as “a frontline of democracy,” Lii stated, as a Ukrainian flag fluttered exterior his workplace window. Though their regional contexts differ, Lii stated, Taiwan stands in solidarity with Ukraine as a smaller democracy going through potential invasion.
Dongyin native Tsai Pei-yuan, born in 1993, the yr after Matsu’s strict army rule ended, is a part of a era for whom warfare feels distant. Two years in the past, Tsai and two former classmates co-founded Salty Island Studio, a restaurant and neighborhood hub that has hosted arts workshops and performs.
“Extra pressing is attempting to protect our tradition, which is disappearing,” Tsai stated earlier than a wine-tasting occasion final week.
The Ukraine warfare is a standard matter of dialog for some — together with jokes about the place to cover if China invades.
“Once we discover strongholds, we ask, if a warfare actually begins, which close by stronghold would we run to?” stated Chung Jing-yei, 26, who manages Nangan’s Xiwei Peninsula restaurant.
Chung stated it was solely after she moved to Nangan that she understood why so many right here wish to keep the established order.
“My perception that we ought to be an unbiased nation is resolute, however on the identical time, I don’t need warfare to occur,” she stated.
Dotting the islands’ rugged coastlines are bunkers, deserted or remodeled into vacationer locations and boutique lodges.
Older Matsu residents have vivid reminiscences of hiding in shelters from Chinese language shelling and never being allowed to personal basketballs for concern that they might use them to drift throughout to China.
“I don’t assume the 2 sides will struggle,” Lucy Lin, a 62-year-old taxi driver and bakery proprietor, stated as a Chinese language radio station performed in her automotive. “So long as you don’t step over the crimson strains.”
Shih Pei-yin, who labored as an city planner in Taipei earlier than beginning Xiwei, is eager to play her half in bettering the lives of Matsu’s folks.
“For so long as it’s potential, we hope to work with the island’s residents to enhance this place,” Shih stated. “Even whether it is short-term, that’s okay. Not less than we tried our greatest.”
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