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“In case you are bored with London, you might be bored with life,” mentioned Dr Samuel Johnson, the sage who was not himself a Londoner however pretended to be one. Since I, too, was getting bored with life, I believed I might take Dr Johnson’s recommendation and spend a while in London.
One of the simplest ways to wander round London is to throw your self on the mercy of its buses and underground trains and drift. You possibly can change them as typically as you want or while you really feel you could have had sufficient, relaxation your ft in one of many parks. The following day, you begin once more in one other a part of the city till your legs have had sufficient.
I believed I might begin with a cup of tea at Victoria station, a mile or so from the Parliament till I found the stall had disappeared. Throughout the street from the outdated stall was a dhaba – an actual dhaba – which served scorching samosas and naturally, tea. Samosas in London and parathas too, however London is now as a lot an Indian metropolis as British and even Englishmen now have samosas for breakfast.
There are literally extra Indians in London than in Karol Bagh and also you get alongside with out a single phrase of Queen’s English crossing your lips. Midway up Shaftesbury Avenue, one other outdated hang-out the place I as soon as noticed Laurence Olivier in breeches searching for ‘a horse for a kingdom,’ there’s an Indian restaurant straight out of Chandni Chowk and I used to be amazed to seek out it nonetheless there, although its curry is now just a little anglicised. However give me a curry anytime as a substitute of these wilting sandwiches.
Laurence Olivier is lifeless and so is Vivien Leigh however the faint echo of her streetcar named want nonetheless lingers within the air as you cross into Tottenham Court docket Street, maybe probably the most disreputable road in London and subsequently, probably the most scrumptious. You get a whiff of one thing like opium as you stagger out of its pubs and males are unsteady on their legs and so are their women with glazed eyes.
The bus makes a protracted detour close to College School, the place George Orwell spent his final days, previous Bloomsbury the place Virginia Woolf wrote her dainty novels earlier than she dedicated suicide in the course of the conflict. Bloomsbury has now been taken over by publishing homes and there’s a McDonald’s proper in entrance of Woolf’s outdated residence the place John Maynard Keynes lived together with his poodle.
I used to dwell in a hostel close by, as soon as frequented by the likes of Krishna Menon who, lean and hungry as a scarecrow, used to promote his handwritten pamphlets for a shilling a bit. However that was, in fact, earlier than he struck gold as Jawaharlal Nehru’s excessive commissioner and commenced sporting handmade fits of the best cashmere that went effectively together with his new Rolls Royce.
On to Hampstead, which you’ll be able to nonetheless attain by a quaint little railway, so tiny it’s most likely run by kids. A small street hyperlinks Hampstead with Rosslyn Hill, not removed from the home the place Julian Huxley as soon as lived earlier than he went on to Paris as UNESCO’s chief. On a balmy night one summer time, I noticed Huxley in earnest dialog with Bernard Shaw, of all folks and Bertrand Russell, after perhaps a type of austere Fabian suppers consisting of dried up leaves of lettuce and peanut cutlets, for which the socialists had been well-known.
Hampstead Heath, the place Orwell used to stroll his canine, is just a brief stroll previous the little cottage the place Keats as soon as lived and the place, in an upstairs room, you may nonetheless see his lock of hair and a few garments. In reality, there are lifeless writers everywhere in London, so many that you simply overlook that London has additionally its politicians and statesmen. Most of them dwell, if that’s the proper phrase, cheek by jowl, in Westminster Abbey, not removed from Victoria station, although the best of all of them, Winston Churchill rests peacefully in St. Paul’s Cathedral, a few miles away.
Per week is a very long time in politics, mentioned Harold Wilson, a primary minister. So is a day in London!
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